I recently posted an extensive list of ingredients as a reference for examining what certain hair products are doing to your hair.  Try it out, you might be surprised by the results.  Anyhow, lately I’ve noticed that a number of products are printing paraben-free on their labels, so I decided to find out what that means.

WHAT THEY ARE

Parabens are chemicals widely used by the cosmetic industry as preservatives.  They have proven to be effective in preserving different types of products including shampoos, moisturizers, shaving gens, toothpastes, etc – where their compounds fight bacteria and fungi.  Ultimately they are used to “protect” the consumer and for maintaining product integrity.  The most common parabens used in cosmetic products are methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and benzylparaben.

THE CONCERN

In the last couple of years, there have been a number of scientific studies that have investigated the safety of parabens in personal care products.  Some argue that they are bad, bad, bad – linking parabens to breast cancer (yikes), while others argue that these conclusions are unfounded.

ALTERNATIVES

If you are concerned about parabens – consider using paraben-free products. 

Anionic surfactants: Detergency, foaming

Alkylbenzene sulfonates

Ammonium laureth sulfate: can be drying to the hair

Ammonium lauryl sulfate: can be very drying to the hair

Ammonium Xylenesulfonate

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate

Sodium laureth sulfate: can be drying to the hair

Sodium lauryl sulfate: can be especially drying to the hair

Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate

Sodium myreth sulfate

Sodium Xylenesulfonate

TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate

Ethyl PEG-15 cocamine sulfate

Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate

Amphoteric surfactants: Used to provide mild cleansing, as well as some aid in foaming

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Coco betaine

Cocoamphoacetate

Cocoamphodipropionate

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate

Disodium cocoamphodipropionate

Lauroamphoacetate

Sodium cocoyl isethionate

Cationic surfactants:

Quaternary Ammonium compounds:used to provide conditioning, some detergency, emulsion stabilization

Behentrimonium chloride

Behentrimonium methosulfate (gentler)

Benzalkonium chloride

Cetrimonium chloride

Cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride

Cocotrimonium chloride

Dicetyldimonium chloride

Dicocodimonium chloride

Dihydrogenated tallow dimethylammonium chloride

Hydrogenated Palm Trimethylammonium chloride

Laurtrimonium chloride

Quaternium-15

Quaternium-18 Bentonite

Quaternium-18 Hectonite

Quaternium-22

Stearalkonium chloride

Tallowtrimonium chloride

Tricetyldimonium chloride

Nonionic surfactants: Used for gentle cleansing and for emulsion stabilization

Decyl glucoside

Laureth-10 (lauryl ether 10)

Laureth-23

Laureth-4

PEG-10 Sorbitan Laurate

Polysorbate- (20, 21, 40, 60, 61, 65, 80, 81)

PPG-1 Trideceth-6

Sorbitol

Steareth- (2, 10, 15, 20)

C11-21 Pareth- (number between 3 and 30, the higher the number, the more water soluble and higher the hydrophilic portion)

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

Emulsifiers: Larger surfactants used to stabilize emulsions (droplets of oils in water)

Caprylic/capric/diglyceryl succinate

C10-15 Pareth-(2,4,6,8) Phosphate

C14-16 Glycol Palmitate

C18-20 Glycol Isostearate

Ceteareth-(4-60)

Cocamidopropyl lauryl ether

Deceth-(3-10)

DIPA-hydrogenated cocoate

Dipentaerythrityl hydroxystearate

Dipentaerythrityl hydroxyisostearate

Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprate/caprylate

Dodoxynol-(5,6,7,9,12)

Nonoxynol-(1-35)

Octoxynol-(1-70)

Octyldodeceth-(2,5,16,20,25)

Palm kernel glycerides

Preservatives:

Butyl paraben

Diazolidinyl urea

DMDM Hydantoin

Ethyl paraben

Imidazolidinyl Urea

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Isobutyl paraben

Methyl paraben

Methylchloroisothiazolinone

Methylisothiazolinone

Phenoxyethanol

Propyl paraben

Sodium benzoate

Thickeners:

Aluminum stearates/isostearates/myristates/laurates/palmitates — any mixture thereof

Glycol distearate

Hydrogenated castor oil

Hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate

Hydrogenated castor oil isostearate

Hydrogenated castor oil stearate

Hydrogenated castor PEG-8 esters

PEG150 distearate

Naturally derived polymers: Used for thickening of the product

Carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose

Carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar

Cellulose

Ethyl cellulose

Hydroxybutyl methylcellulose

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydroxymethylcellulose

Lauryl Polyglucose

Humectants: Attract water to the hair to keep the moisture content high

1,2,6 hexanetriol

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene glycol

Glycerin

Hexylene Glycol

Panthenol

Phytantriol — enhances moisture-retention, increases absorption of vitamins, panthenol, and amino acids into hair shaft, imparts gloss

Propylene glycol

Sodium PCA

Sorbitol

Triethylene glycol

Polyglyceryl sorbitol

Glucose

Fructose

Polydextrose

Potassium PCA

Urea

Hydrogenated Honey

Hyaluronic Acid

Inositol

Hexanediol beeswax

Hexanetriol Beeswax

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Silk

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Erythritol

Capryl glycol

Isoceteth-(3-10, 20, 30)

Isolaureth-(3-10, 20, 30)

Laneth-(5-50)

Laureth-(1-30)

Steareth-(4-20)

Trideceth-(5-50)

Cationic Polymers: Positively charged polymers that provide silkening and smoothing effects by adhering to the surface of the hair due to the hair’s overall negative charge

Polyquaternium-10

Polyquaternium-7

Polyquaternium-11

Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride

Silicones: Used to add shine and gloss to hair, decrease combing friction and tangling, provide conditioning, and act as humectants

Amodimethicone not soluble in water by itself

Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride mixture that is soluble in water in the bottle

Behenoxy Dimethicone Sparingly soluble in water

Cetearyl methicone not soluble in water

Cetyl Dimethicone not soluble in water

Cyclomethicone not soluble in water

Cyclopentasiloxane not soluble in water

Dimethicone not soluble in water

Dimethicone Copolyol water soluble

Dimethicone copolyol water soluble

Dimethiconol not soluble in water

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane water soluble

Stearoxy Dimethicone Sparingly soluble in water

Stearyl Dimethicone not soluble in water

Trimethylsilylamodimethicone not soluble in water

Lauryl methicone copolyol water soluble

Organic oils: Emollient effects, conditioning

Mineral oil

Paraffin

Petrolatum

Proteins

Humectants, conditioners

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids

Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen

Cocoyl hydrolyzed keratin

Hydrolyzed keratin

Hydrolyzed oat flour

Hydrolyzed silk

Hydrolyzed silk protein

Hydrolyzed soy protein

Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Keratin

Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen

TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen

TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein

Vitamins

Retinol, Retinyl palmitate (Vitamin A)

Tocopherol acetate (Vitamin E)

Emollient Esters: Provide conditioning to the hair and give a soft, smooth feel

Butyl myristate

Butyl stearate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Cetyl octanoate

Cetyl stearate

Cetearyl stearate

Decyl oleate

Dimethyl Lauramine Isostearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl adipate

Glyceryl arachidate

Glyceryl arachidonate

Glyceryl behenate

Glyceryl caprate

Glyceryl caprylate

Glyceryl caprylate / caprate

Glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate

Glyceryl cocoate

Glyceryl Diarachidate

Glyceryl Dibehenate

Glyceryl Dierucate

Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate

Glyceryl Diisopalmitate

Glyceryl Diisostearate

Glyceryl Dilaurate

Glyceryl Dilinoleate

Glyceryl Dimyristate

Glyceryl Dioleate

Glyceryl Dipalmitate

Glyceryl Dipalmitoleate

Glyceryl Diricinoleate

Glyceryl Distearate

Glyceryl Erucate

Glycol stearate

Isocetyl stearate

Isopropyl Myristate

Isopropyl palmitate

Isopropyl stearate

Isostearyl stearate

Octyl palmitate

Octyl stearate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Sorbitan benzoate

Sorbitan caprylate

Sorbitan isostearate

Sorbitan laurate

Sorbitan Tristearate

Stearyl stearate

Tocopheryl linoleate

Alkanolamides: Emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers / surfactants / viscosity controlling agents

Acetamide MEA

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide MEA

Lactamide MEA

Lauramide DEA

Lauramide DEA & Propylene Glycol

Lauramide MEA

Lecithinamide DEA

Linoleamide DEA

Linoleamide MEA

Linoleamide MIPA

Myristamide DEA

Myristamide MEA

Myristamide MIPA

Oleamide DEA

Oleamide DEA

Oleamide MEA

Oleamide MIPA

Soyamide DEA

Stearamide MEA

Amines: Emulsifiers and conditioning agents

Behentamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine

Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Palmitamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Tallamidopropyl Dimethylamine

pH-adjusters

Used in very small amounts

Ascorbic acid

Citric acid

Sodium hydroxide

Triethanolamine

Salts: Often used to enhance thickness (viscosity) of the product

Calcium chloride

Magnesium chloride

Magnesium sulfate: has been found to add volume to hair, used to enhance curls

Potassium chloride

Potassium glycol sulfate

Sodium Chloride

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Fatty Alcohols: Provide emollient effect, lubricity, emulsion stabilization

Behenyl alcohol

Cetearyl alcohol

Cetyl alcohol

Isocetyl alcohol

Isostearyl alcohol

Lauryl alcohol

Myristyl alcohol

Stearyl alcohol

C30-50 Alcohols

Lanolin alcohol

UV Filters/sunscreens

Benzophenone-2, ( or 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)

Benzophenone-4

Benzyl salicylate

Benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid

Bornelone

Ethyl cinnamate

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octyl methoxycinnamate)

Octoxynol-40, -20

Octyl methoxycinnamate

Octyl Salicylate

Oxybenzone

Phenyl ketone

PEG-25 PABA

Polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor

Natural Oils: Provide emolliency, conditioning, add shine

Coconut oil

Jojoba oil

Olive oil

Palm Oil

Safflower Oil

Sesame seed oil

Shea butter

Sweet almond oil

Wheat germ oil

Amine Oxides: Used to help disperse dyes in product

Cocamine oxide

Lauramine oxide

Chelating agents: Used in small amounts to react with metal ions present in the product or in the water, in order to improve stability or performance of the product

Diiospropyl oxalate

Disodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA-copper

EDTA

HEDTA

Oxalic acid

Potassium or sodium citrate

Sodium oxalate

TEA-EDTA

Tetrasodium EDTA

Trisodium EDTA

Trisodium HEDTA

Fatty Acids: Used as emulsifying agents, emulsion stabilizers

Arichidonic acid

Capric Acid

Coconut Fatty Acid

Lauric acid

Linoleic acid

Linolenic acid

Myristic Acid

Palmitic acid

Pantothenic acid

Stearic acid

Caproic acid

Capryleth-(4,6,9) carboxylic acid

Isostearic acid

Anti-Microbials/ Antibacterial

Glyoxal

Triclosan

PEG-Modified materials: Used as emulsifiers, surfactants, humectants, and to make non-wter soluble molecules more water soluble (There are thousands of these approved for use)

PEG-150 Pentaerythirtyl Tetrastearate

PEG- 2, -3, -4, -6, -8, -12, -20, -32, -50, -150, -175 Distearate – also used to thicken the product

PEG-10 castor oil

PEG-10 cocamine

PEG-10 cocoate

PEG-10 coconut oil esters

PEG-10 glyceryl oleate

PEG-10 glyceryl pibsa tallate

PEG-10 glyceryl stearate

PEG-10 hydrogenated lanolin

PEG-10 hydrogenated tallow amine

PEG-10 isolauryl thioether

PEG-10 isostearate

PEG-10 lanolate

PEG-10 lanolin

PEG-10 laurate

PEG-10 oleate

PEG-10 olive glycerides

PEG-10 polyglyceryl-2 laurate

PEG-10 propylene glycol

PEG-10 sorbitan laurate

PEG-10 soya sterol

PEG-10 soyamine

PEG-10 stearamine

PEG-10 stearate

PEG-10 stearyl benzonium chloride

PEG-10 tallate

PEG-10 tallow aminopropylamine

PEG-100

PEG-100 castor oil

PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil

PEG-100 lanolin

PEG-100 stearate

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60..etc.

PEG-55 Propylene glycol Distearate

Miscellaneous Polymers: There are many, and they are used for a variety of purposes.

Carbomer: Polymer used to provide thickening

Dodecanedioic acid/cetearyl alcohol/glycol copolymer: Polymer used to provide thickening

Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers: Polymer used to form films on hair surface in hair styling products

Hydrogenated ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer: Polymer used to form films on hair surface in hair styling products

Polyacrylic acid: Polymer used to provide thickening, emulsification, binding, and film forming on hair

Polymethyl methacrylate: Polymer used to form films on hair surface in hair styling products

Polyvinyl acetate: Polymer used to form films on hair surface in hair styling products

Polyvinyl alcohol: Polymer used to form films on hair surface in hair styling products

PPG: Polymer used to provide thickening and to stabilize emulsions

PPG-25-Laureth-25: Polymer used to provide thickening and to stabilize emulsions

PPG-5 Pentaerithrityl ether: Polymer used to provide thickening and to stabilize emulsions

PPG-75-PEG-300-hexylene glycol: Polymer used to provide thickening

PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone): Polymer used to provide thickening

PVP/VA (polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer): Polymer used to provide thickening

Sodium carbomer: Polymer used to provide thickening

TEA-carbomer: Polymer used to provide thickening

Poloxamer (100-407): Polymers used as emulsifiers (emulsion stabilizers) and surfactants (detergents)

Poloxamine (followed by a number): Polymers used as emulsifiers (emulsion stabilizers) and surfactants (detergents)

Polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid: Polymer used to form films on hair surface in hair styling products

Polyethylene terephthalate: Polymer used to form films on hair surface in hair styling products

Anti-static agents: Reduce static charge build-up and fly-away hair

Apricotamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate

Apricotamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Cocamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate

Cocamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Lauramidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate

Lauramidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Linoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate

Linoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Myristamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate

Myristamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate

Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Stearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate

Stearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Alcohols: Used a solvent, can be drying to the hair

SD alcohol 40

Witch hazel

Isopropanol